If a car feels financially irrational but you still need mobility, a motorcycle is often the cleanest alternative. But the right way to evaluate a bike isn’t “cheap petrol” — it’s the same lens we use for cars: total exposure (depreciation/COE + running costs) + liquidity fragility.
Start here (fast path)
This page is a practical budgeting guide for motorcycles. If you want the “system view” for transport decisions, start at the Transport hub.
If you’re deciding between the two: Motorcycle vs Car Cost (full comparison) .
People under-budget bikes because the fuel bill feels small. The monthly reality is a bundle: fuel + insurance + parking + maintenance + consumables. Use these planning bands, then calibrate with your actual riding pattern.
| Profile | What it looks like | Monthly running-cost band |
|---|---|---|
| Light rider | Short commute, mostly weekdays | $180 – $300 |
| Daily commuter | Weekday commute + some weekend use | $250 – $420 |
| High mileage / frequent use | Longer routes, regular weekend travel | $350 – $550+ |
These are running costs. Your total exposure increases if you include depreciation/COE and financing.
Fuel is usually lower than car ownership, but it scales with distance. If you want a clean modelling method, use the car fuel page as the template and apply your bike efficiency: Fuel cost in Singapore (cost per km + monthly scenarios).
Insurance can swing widely depending on rider profile, bike class, and claims history. When your premium spikes, the “bike is cheap” story collapses. Treat insurance as a non-negotiable fixed cost and budget it monthly.
Motorcycle parking is usually cheaper and more available than car lots, but don’t assume it’s always zero. If you want the mindset for monthly budgeting, use the same approach as car parking: Parking cost in Singapore (monthly budget thinking).
Bikes have frequent consumables. Tyres, chain/sprocket, brake pads, servicing—small individually, but recurring. The correct approach is to keep a rolling monthly buffer rather than “pay when it breaks”.
The big costs aren’t the weekly petrol top-up. They’re what you lose when you exit. If you change bikes frequently, depreciation dominates. Use the same lens as car ownership: choose a holding period and model your exit value.
If you’re still deciding “car vs no car”, start from the master exposure model: 5-year ownership breakdown.
For many riders, $200–$450/month covers realistic running costs. If you ride high mileage or have higher insurance/consumables, budget higher.
Usually not. Public transport is the lowest-cost baseline for most commuters. Use this page to budget a bike, then compare against: public transport monthly cost.
Often yes. It can deliver time certainty with much lower monthly exposure than a car. But only if you budget insurance and consumables properly and avoid frequent switching.